{"id":114171,"date":"2025-02-11T06:30:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-10T19:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/?p=114171"},"modified":"2025-02-10T14:37:31","modified_gmt":"2025-02-10T03:37:31","slug":"postcard-hidden-bay-mentawai-islands","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/postcard-hidden-bay-mentawai-islands","title":{"rendered":"Postcard: Hidden Bay, Mentawai Islands"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It\u2019s 5:30 am when I descend the stairs of my lofted cabin. A bright, half-moon still hangs from the sky, but the faint glow of the creeping dawn is already stealing the lustre of the stars. Ambling along a sand track, neatly bound by parallel lines of coconut husks, I pass the roughly made shacks of the local families. Here on Masokut Island in the Mentawai chain, they make a living; fishing, processing cloves for Gudang cigarettes and trading coconuts. Of course, since the early 2000\u2019s surfing has become an important player in the local economy. &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-1024x683.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114176\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-391x260.jpeg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-2048x1365.jpeg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/dawn-600x400.jpeg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I squint towards the waves rumbling across the reefs on the lagoon\u2019s outer edge. It\u2019s too early to really see what the swell is doing, and I wonder what hollow treasures the day will bring. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The track leads to the main \u2018Uma\u2019 (Indonesian house), which serves as the epicentre of activity at <a href=\"https:\/\/hiddenbayresortmentawais.com\">Hidden Bay, Resort.<\/a> \u00a0This super-sized version of the UMA is three stories high and features sturdy, log pillars, smooth wooden floorboards that feel the contours of your feet, and a traditional thatch-weave in the roof. It\u2019s grand designs Indonesian style. \u00a0\u201cI built it from scratch,\u201d Alex, the resort\u2019s owner had boasted with a proud smile peeling across his sun-bronzed face.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114172\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-2048x1366.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/Ulau-Manua-Resort-Interno-Foto-William-Zimmermann-22-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Grand Designs, Indo style at the Hidden Bay&#8217;s central Uma. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When I reach the Uma\u2019s main deck, the resort is already rumbling to life in anticipation of the forecasted waves. Alex strikes the large gong hanging from a rafter to signal it\u2019s time to mobilise. Nine of the guests are prodigious grommets competing in a barrel riding event. A tube duel in the tropics where the best, hollow ride wins.\u00a0As Alex whacks the gong with wide-grinning pleasure, the wave warriors scramble to get ready, appearing on the deck with a favoured ride under the arm and a pair of boardshorts in the other.\u00a0<br><br>Scott, the bearded, spartan trainer leads us through a ten-minute warm-up routine before we snatch at fruit, coffee and crackers and load our gear onto the surf boats. Breakfast can wait when the waves are on. Soon the bow of our narrow, wooden boat is spearing through the cross-chop; the whirring acoustics of the engine delivering a familiar soundtrack to the daily wave hunting ritual. Anticipation runs high on the smell of diesel.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114173\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/treinodeck.jpg 1350w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A daily stretch and mobility session helps you get the most out of your surfing when you are spending hours in the water.    <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Fifteen minutes later we arrive in the channel at No-Kandui. A single, roping swell grips the top of the reef, before funnelling down the shelf at unfathomable speed. The curling wave bends and breathes as it sprints across the shallows, challenging any contender to try and keep up. Our crew are more than willing, leaping overboard to beat the crowds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114174\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/kandui.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">A side-long glance at Kandui doing its thing.  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Anthony Walsh is the first to stroke into one. He chases down a gleaming blue wall like a shark pursuing a fish, every part of his movement is purposeful, refined and predatory. A Go Pro camera is gripped between his teeth as he slides into the tube. He\u2019s built a career around being a hollow wave specialist who invites viewers to explore the inner-most limits with his POV, camera trickery. A day ago, he\u2019d told me he\u2019d been inspired by George Greenough\u2019s groundbreaking inside-the-barrel footage from Crystal Voyager.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video\"><video height=\"960\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 538 \/ 960;\" width=\"538\" controls src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/332eaff1bff547469a0a8d185ffa690c.mov\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Anthony Walsh at Kandui. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After Walshy blurs past me, I turn to see the hordes coming, leaping off boats like soldiers spoiling for the fight, hearts full of wave lust and heads spinning with cunning tricks to do whatever is required to snag a wave\u2026. I know the mindset all too well because I\u2019m no different.<br><br>As the armada arrives, the tube duel kicks off. Five grommets paddle out with a US $1500 cash incentive to claim the deepest, heaviest, longest pit. Four-to-six-foot Nokandui is a worthy playing field for their jousting. If the crowd disapproves of their presence they don\u2019t indicate it. The groms have no claim on the lineup, they\u2019re just four extra bodies in the water. It\u2019s\u00a0not an official event where the water is cleared; it\u2019s more relaxed than that &#8211; \u2018just paddle out and try get a barrel\u2019. Best one wins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114187\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0750.jpoegdor-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jackson Dorian<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">While the prodigious groms forage for waves, an Ozi tube hound claims a howling barrel right under their noses; the wave moves at a perfect pace as he hooks in for the length of the reef. He\u2019s wearing a hooded, long-sleeve rash-vest that makes him look like a giant-pelican as he slides through multiple sections. The crowd hoots, he\u2019s the everyman scoring the wave of a lifetime \u2013 exactly what they all came here for.\u00a0 When he kicks off, we get chatting and he explains he\u2019s from the northern beaches and has just arrived from Bali. The full-length rashie is a desperate measure to cover up after he got baked on a long, shirtless day of surf in Bali.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jackson Dorian \u2013 son of Shane Dorian \u2013 is in the event. Way up the reef, he swings late and parachutes from the lip on his backhand. The laws of physics are against him, but he has the compact frame and balance of an Olympic gymnast, and sticks the drop, before swinging hard off the bottom and throttling into a gaping barrel. Favourable genetics, a father\u2019s footsteps to follow in, and a few months-straight in Indo all help him hold the line. Eventually the wave clamps, but the seventeen-year-old\u2019s self-confidence and apparent ability are startling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114175\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A0817-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Jackson Dorian clutches a rail as the crowd gets caught by a stretched, Kandui funnel.  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Jackson\u2019s ride is matched by a lantern-jawed, blonde American who stuffs his lanky, surf-honed frame into a roaring pit that never quite offers an escape. Later, he earnestly gives me the moment-by-moment breakdown of the ride. The barrel is the only currency that counts out here and people take it seriously. Later, someone tells me the guy taught Erin Brooks how to surf back in Hawaii. I don&#8217;t doubt the reference, given how confidently rock-jaw navigates the line-up.    <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Meanwhile, at the top of the reef a helmeted figure with a bulky, impact vest waits stoically for the deepest sets. He looks like some kind of surfing ninja-turtle. You can\u2019t fault his commitment, but he\u2019s working on the law of averages; hurling his frame over the ledge, happy to take horror wipeouts until he makes one. Between sets, someone explains that he\u2019s a regular in the Kandui lineup, a rich guy who\u2019s made his money and is now content to dedicate his days to a masochistic pursuit of deep barrels, most way beyond his ability level.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Further down the line, I\u2019m humbled by a teenage girl from Cronulla who swoops on inside runners, sets a rail and masterfully navigates the racy walls. On a crowded day she is finding gaps in the lineup, stroking in purposefully and having more fun than most. Dad watches on proudly, wondering if there\u2019s anything better in the world than riding a few good waves with his daughter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114185\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9010.jpegloft--600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Welcome retreat from the mid-day sun while you get ready for the next session.   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Eventually the wind ruffles and the crowd swells. It\u2019s time to return to Hidden Bay for lunch. Sated by a wholesome plate of fresh fish, rice and salad I stroll back along the sandy, coconut-shell path to my room.\u00a0 The fierce, mid-day heat stifles my pace and my muscles ache with the morning\u2019s efforts. The air is permeated by the sweet scent of fresh cloves, which have been laid out to dry alongside the path by the island locals. Climbing slowly up the stairs to my air-conditioned room, I can think only of the coolness inside, the book I will read from and the slow drift into afternoon sleep\u2026 horizontal recovery before heading out to do it all again in the afternoon. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-114179\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-391x260.jpg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-2048x1365.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/4Q2A9430.jpegh_-600x400.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Lucky loner weighs up the hollow right on the outer edge of the Hidden Bay Resort&#8217;s lagoon.   <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When going surfing is all that matters <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":114177,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,5554,20,332,5547,5538],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114171","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-indonesia","category-news","category-slider-home","category-slider-news","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - 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