{"id":125752,"date":"2026-04-06T04:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-04-05T18:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/?p=125752"},"modified":"2026-04-01T14:37:51","modified_gmt":"2026-04-01T03:37:51","slug":"a-surfer-in-hawaii-making-the-dream-move-to-oahu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/a-surfer-in-hawaii-making-the-dream-move-to-oahu","title":{"rendered":"A Surfer in Hawaii: Making the Dream Move to Oahu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u201cAll our dreams can come true \u2013 if we have the courage to pursue them.\u201d \u2013 Walt Disney<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I wasn\u2019t born to be a surfer; I grew up in a family of non-surfers, twenty miles from the coast in Orange County California. In my teens I had to beg my parents to take me to the beach and I didn\u2019t really know that surfed-out, beach-bleached, salt-crusted skin feel till I was 16. However, despite my late entry into the lineup, Hawaii was somewhere that was always on my radar. It was warm, it was beautiful, and it was rich in surf history and culture. I made it my goal to someday call the Aloha State my home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Making the Dream Move<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shortly after graduating from college, my dreams came to a screeching halt when I came down with a mysterious illness. I spent five years bedridden and another two recovering, but when I finally felt well enough to travel, I began considering a move. It was 2021, and although travel was allowed, it was still COVID times. Being immune compromised, I silently considered my options. One day, I hopped on Hawaiian Airlines\u2019 website for kicks. One-way tickets were $99. The decision was made.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An overseas move is not easy. You must find a place to live sight unseen, pack your entire life into two suitcases, and figure out what you\u2019re going to do about work when you get there. Luckily, I had a good friend who had moved to Oahu six months before I made my decision, and she talked me through places she thought I\u2019d like to live and the details of shipping my car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019d been working as a freelance surf journalist for nearly a decade, but work was slow thanks to COVID, so I figured I\u2019d find a couple shifts a week on a tourist boat once I landed. I\u2019d spent my entire life making responsible choices and planning everything out to a tee. But for the first time, at age 29, I was going to be a dreamer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The author, Rebecca Parsons, relishing a new life in Hawaii, framed by palm trees and waves. Photo: Caleb Heikes<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

An Introduction to Hawaii\u2019s History<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before moving, I spoke at length with a friend who had called Oahu her home for ten years. As a white woman from an upper-class family, she informed me that I should expect to experience racism for the first time in my life. In 1893, the Kingdom of Hawaii was illegally overthrown by American and European businessmen. Between that travesty and tourists frequently trashing their home, many Hawaiians didn\u2019t take well to white people, or haoles as they call them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I was anxious about how I would be perceived in and out of the water and I desperately wanted to connect with the locals. I decided to use my job to my advantage, and shortly after arriving on the island, I began working on an article for Surfline entitled \u2018The Women of Waikiki.\u2019 I met with prominent native Hawaiian longboarders Megan Godines, Geodee Clark, Tiki Willis, Kelis Kaleopaa, Kelia Moniz, Malia Kaleopaa, Tammy Moniz, and Tiara Bella. We paddled out at Queens, shared some waves, and talked story for hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

They shared insight into Oahu\u2019s history, their thoughts on tourists and outsiders, their tight-knit community, and the best ways to keep the Hawaiian culture alive. It was incredibly insightful and eye-opening. What it all ultimately boiled down to was respect \u2013 respect for the land (aina) <\/em>and the Hawaiian people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Rebecca, riding transparent walls on one of Oahu’s multitude of reefs. Photo: Courtney Britton <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Surf Scene<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As primarily a longboarder, I was under the assumption that I would spend the majority of my time surfing at Queens in Waikiki. It\u2019s the perfect longboard wave and relatively gentle for someone who was a very intermediate surfer. My first few sessions, I paddled out at Queens, being careful to be respectful, especially to the locals. I quickly learned Queens would not be my staple surf spot. One, I hate crowds and it\u2019s in the heart of Waikiki. Two, it\u2019s packed with tourists who don\u2019t know what they\u2019re doing and local pros who I\u2019d never stand a chance of out-paddling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I moved to Oahu in late April, so the south shore was just warming up upon my arrival. I began exploring various breaks, careful to only paddle out at new spots if I was with a friend or under the guidance of a local. Lots of the breaks have shallow reefs and to this day, I still prefer to try new spots with someone who\u2019s surfed them before. I hit Diamond Head, Sandbar, Kaisers, Threes, Rockpiles, Straight Outs, Canoes, Pops, and Marinelands. I wanted the consistency of a homebreak to meet people and make friends, but I loved the variety, and instead, surfed wherever the conditions were favourable each day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I came into my move expecting big, heavy surf and constant criticism from the locals. What I found was that, most of the time, the south shore is soft and friendly. When there\u2019s swell, it can be challenging, but there was always somewhere a very intermediate surfer like me could surf. And as the women of Waikiki said, if you\u2019re respectful, you\u2019ll be treated with respect back. After five years of calling Oahu my home, I have yet to have a bad experience in the water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A new blog series that drops you in Hawaii and follows one woman\u2019s quest to find adventure, fun and friendship in surfing\u2019s hallowed island chain. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12680,"featured_media":125754,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,20,332,5547,5538],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-125752","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-news","category-slider-home","category-slider-news","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nA Surfer in Hawaii: Making the Dream Move to Oahu - Tracks Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/a-surfer-in-hawaii-making-the-dream-move-to-oahu\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Surfer in Hawaii: Making the Dream Move to Oahu - 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