{"id":61647,"date":"2022-01-06T06:55:10","date_gmt":"2022-01-05T19:55:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/?p=61647"},"modified":"2022-01-06T06:55:12","modified_gmt":"2022-01-05T19:55:12","slug":"surfing-sugar-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/surfing-sugar-city","title":{"rendered":"Surfing Sugar City"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Surfing.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Surfing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019m actually surfing!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Four months on the road through far north Queensland, island hopping, diving, camping, fishing.&nbsp; All these things are a welcome distraction for any surfer, but they are still a distraction from the main event, and the tropical low pressure system sliding down Australia\u2019s east coast right now is bringing surfing sharply back into focus.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But as circumstances would have it, I\u2019m confined to Mackay.&nbsp; Sugar city, coal and One Nation country; the unofficial demarcation between northern and southern Queensland.&nbsp; North from here the fishing shirts and XXXX Gold ads become increasingly prolific, and south from here, well, there are waves.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">At least, occasionally there are waves.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">And today is one of those occasions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019m looking out at the Mackay harbour wall, beneath the large ship loading facility, across to a turgid brown sea, where 30 knot south easterlies have whipped up two to three feet of messy wind swell.&nbsp; The breakwater offers only a slight amount of shelter, but after months without waves I don\u2019t care about the quality of the waves.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019m stoked just to get in the water.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019m also surprised to note the number of cars and surfers in the car park here.&nbsp; There are 20 people in the water, and another ten or so watching.&nbsp; There is an RV set up in the far corner with a Surf Lock Box on the door handle, a bunch of grommets loitering on the foreshore, their Dad\u2019s and other old boys watching on beneath a casuarina tree, arms folded, sunnies on.&nbsp; &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I note my surprise to one of the men, and he tells me that Mackay actually has a thriving little surf scene, with around 200-300 surfers here, and a handful of surf shops in town.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cIt\u2019s not the Sunshine or Gold Coast,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cBut we do get the odd day of waves.&nbsp; We might get some easterly trade wind swell from one of those high-pressure systems that set up in the Coral Sea, and in winter we get the odd groundswell that sneaks through The Reef.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cYou never expect much, maybe just clean little shoulder high peelers, but those winter days the water is usually gin clear, still pretty warm.&nbsp; Living here, you\u2019re always just stoked to get in the water.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Too right, I nod. I grab a surfboard from a remote corner of the car, the deck covered with red dust and showing signs of having yellowed in the tropical sun.&nbsp; I scrounge around the back of the car and find a block of wax that has melted and resolidified in some shapeless lump.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Running down to the beach, I\u2019m a little unnerved to note a council sign warning of box jellyfish and crocodiles.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-61651\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-4.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Meanwhile, down south we&#8217;ve only got the sharks to worry about. Photo: Tom de Souza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019d much rather take my chances with a shark than a croc.&nbsp; A fatal shark bite would be, I imagine, sudden and relatively painless, while a croc might drag you half-drowned to some muddy snag and leave you to rot.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But these fears are unfounded, another young, local surfer tells me he\u2019s been a lifeguard here since he was a small boy, and has never seen one at this beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cYou mostly get them in the creeks and around the mangroves.&nbsp; It\u2019s almost unheard of to see one of them cruising along the beaches here.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Also, he tells me, the wind is blowing the wrong direction to bring box jellyfish in to the beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cThey come in with the northerlies.&nbsp; You\u2019ll be right with this sou-easter.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">I launch into the water, dodging floating logs of driftwood in the muddy shorebreak.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After some time away from surfing, I\u2019m seeing it with renewed perspective. The sensation of just paddling and laying on a board is a welcome novelty, but there are other ugly things I haven\u2019t missed.&nbsp; The selfishness, the ego, the entitlement that comes with the gentrification of Australia\u2019s coastal areas.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-61652\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/01\/Surfing-sugar-city-images.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Could be a fun beachbreak day anywhere on the east coast of Oz. Photo: Tom de Souza<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">All of those things are ingrained in the memory of movement, but here in Mackay there is almost none of that.&nbsp; Everyone here is just stoked to be in the water.&nbsp; Most people are riding high volume surfboards, some of them beginners, others are aging, lifelong surfers, and there\u2019s the odd group of frothing but respectful grommets.&nbsp; Everyone is all smiles, and some of the men are happy to share information about other breaks up and down the coast. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After an hour in the water, I\u2019m stoked to be hanging in the car park with a cold beer, remembering that calm, post-surf euphoria.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It\u2019s funny, though, for the past four months I haven\u2019t even thought about surfing, and those who don\u2019t surf might think that now I\u2019ve had my fix I might be satisfied.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But that isn\u2019t the case.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Because surfing is one of those rare and sometimes devious pleasures, where the more you surf the more you want to go surfing.&nbsp; And right now, this muddy windswell has reignited the froth.&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Surfing.&nbsp; Surfing! I\u2019m actually surfing! Four months on the road through far north Queensland, island hopping, &#8230; <a title=\"Surfing Sugar City\" class=\"read-more\" href=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/surfing-sugar-city\" aria-label=\"Read more about Surfing Sugar City\">Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7298,"featured_media":61650,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1,20,5547,5538],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-61647","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","category-news","category-slider-news","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Surfing Sugar City - Tracks Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Mackay in north Queensland has a surprisingly vibrant surf scene.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/surfing-sugar-city\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Surfing Sugar City - 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