{"id":83097,"date":"2023-01-11T10:42:24","date_gmt":"2023-01-10T23:42:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/?p=83097"},"modified":"2024-07-10T16:05:33","modified_gmt":"2024-07-10T06:05:33","slug":"samoa-is-a-balm-for-the-soul-but-what-about-the-waves","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/samoa-is-a-balm-for-the-soul-but-what-about-the-waves","title":{"rendered":"SAMOA IS A BALM FOR THE SOUL BUT WHAT ABOUT THE WAVES?"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/current-issue\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Issue 588 is on stands now, available for purchase online or click here to find sub options and read the full article on Tracks Premium.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">***<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">Why Samoa? It\u2019s a question that follows me around like a stray dog when I spend a week exploring the islands. The primary concern, however, is: Where are all the waves hiding?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">Samoa has always felt a bit shy and enigmatic to me. I\u2019ve heard many and varied reports about the waves. One friend came over for two weeks and left after five days frustrated and surfless. Another mate lived here, worked as a surf guide, banked lifetime barrels, fell in love and married into Samoa. The waves can get really good but are hard to reach and pretty short and slabby, I gathered. Take a board but be prepared to not use it, I was told. So, I arrive with expectations in check and mind wide open. And a 6\u20192\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"569\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-1024x569.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-83100\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-1024x569.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-300x167.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-600x334.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-768x427.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS-1536x854.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/MOANO-TOURS.jpeg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Double-rainbow leads the way to a forgotten Garden of Eden. Photos: Manoa Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">I\u2019m on the first tourist flight into Apia after two pandemic-blighted years and the welcome mat stretches to the plane. Before I even depart I hear singing and sense happy-clappy vibes. There\u2019s a string band strumming and a line of dancers sashay fluidly, welcoming us like royalty. A beaming dancer lassos me with a fragrant lei and I\u2019m spirited to the customs room where another troupe perform. All airport arrivals should be this festive. A third group dance beside the baggage carousel and there are tears and hugs all round. You get the feeling social distancing is a very foreign concept here in Samoa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">I spend my first day site-seeing, shedding first-world stress and staring at the fringing reefs out on the horizon. It looks like there might be waves peeling through some of the passes but it\u2019s too distant to know and too far to paddle. I get close to Salani Resort, knowing it\u2019s directly in front of one of Samoa\u2019s best waves but it\u2019s closed, and the trade winds scour the lagoon unpromisingly. I\u2019m told that Neil Lumsden from Manoa Tours would love to take me surfing if he wasn\u2019t currently off island. Which is a blessing in disguise because that\u2019s how I meet his local understudy, the legendary Manu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">Manu is about as hardcore as you can get but I don\u2019t know that when he rocks up to our meeting fale (house) in an old clunker van with his bodyboard in the back. Tall and tatted he\u2019s in a black Eddie Aikau shirt and sports a dread-locked rat\u2019s tail that would impress a Dothraki horse lord. \u201cSee that wave out there,\u201d he says pointing at the horizon, seconds after shaking my hand. \u201cThat\u2019s barrelling today, offshore.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-1024x682.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-83099\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-1024x682.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-300x200.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-768x512.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-391x260.jpeg 391w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS-600x400.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/M-ANO-TOURS.jpeg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Postcard perspective of a tapering right that carries the suggestion of infinite pleasure.<br>Photo: Manoa Tours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cHow big?\u201d I ask, snapping to attention. He does some calculations \u2013 three foot west at 16seconds \u2013two and half foot but \u201cstrong swell, powerful\u201d. Manu tells me he hasn\u2019t surfed for weeks. No tourists and killer petrol prices have made ocean play off limits. We are both feeling fortunate about crossing paths and sharing this bluebird day. I load my board in the back next to a Johnson outboard, which tilts across a bench seat. Up in front I\u2019m shin-deep in plastic bottles and assorted petro-chemical debris. Recycling, Samoa style. Manu apologies but I can barely hear him over the screeching fan belt. We\u2019re off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\">***<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/tracksmag.com.au\/current-issue\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>Issue 588 is on stands now, available for purchase online or click here to find sub options and read the full article on Tracks Premium.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>An excerpt from the \u2018 Treasured Islands\u2019 feature in Issue 588.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":83101,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20,332,5547,5548,5538],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-83097","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news","category-slider-home","category-slider-news","category-slider-travel","category-travel"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>SAMOA IS A BALM FOR THE SOUL BUT WHAT ABOUT THE WAVES? 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