Behind The Cover: Tracks Issue 594

On The Cover: Griffin Colapinto by Ryan Miller.

“This day was after a few massive perfect days out at Teahupoo. All the guys had gotten their fill the days previous and then again this morning. It had gotten a little bit wonky and most crew had gone in. Griffin was in a bad rhythm earlier in the day and hadn’t gotten a good wave so he stayed out. When I say stayed out I mean he parked it there and never left. I swam for at least six hours this session, no water, no food, just all adrenaline. Waves were still pumping and not that many crew on it. Griff finally started to get into a rhythm later in the session and was bagging great waves back to back to back. We were legit screaming in the channel like children. On every kick out, heads were tossed back, mouths agape, letting out the most primitive howls.” Check out Ryan Miller’s full recount of the Issue 594 cover shot in the clip below.

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Lightbox #1: ISSUE 594

Noa Deane & the term ‘Free Surfer’.

The way it rolls off the tongue the term ‘Free Surfer’ makes it sound like an easy gig. One pictures a life bereft of accountability to a boss or for that matter the rigid time-constraints of a contest heat. Instead of a daily grind it’s all about long sessions in the water and slow-drifting through the moments in between, pausing briefly to make travel plans for the next exotic location. One can forget that in order to perpetuate their bohemian, barrel-riding existence Free Surfers have to set a high bar. You must constantly find new and innovative ways to impress a surfing public that is over-saturated with dazzling imagery if you want to cultivate a following, and convince sponsors of your worth. Over the last decade Noa Deane (pictured) has proven himself to be a master of the Free Surfing art.

If Noa is not hovering above the lip in a steezy pose, he’s hurtling through cavernous, green-lit pits like this one; showcasing a dynamic, high- risk act laced with a compelling mix of flair and nonchalance. So what is a Free Surfer’s job? Well, while we navigate the hectic and humdrum elements of everyday life, Noa is out there on the fringes, reminding us how high and how deep we can go, if we really try.

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Lightbox #3 ISSUE 594

The winning ticket.

“Saturday morning, shin-high surf and I had set my camera up with a fisheye lens to swim out and shoot some underwater photos of any sea life that was hanging around and perhaps even a couple of waves, should one care to break. It was smack- bang in the middle of winter during a somewhat flat-spell, accompanied by textbook, crystal-blue conditions. I noticed a friend of mine Damien Pepper – a local surfer/shaper – had strolled out near where I was hanging. He was just down a bit, right off the back of a razor sharp bank and was probably testing out one of his boards. Out of nowhere pops up what is probably the biggest and only wave that broke that entire day with Damien holding the winning ticket, flying past me through the tube and into the sun. I remember being underwater, watching it through my goggles whilst firing off a burst of photos and thinking to myself what a beautiful moment it was.”

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